Conflict of interest in action

As most people living on the east side of Joburg know, there is a particular dip in Observatory Avenue, near the Bez Valley park, where it's rather difficult to keep to the speed limit. The hill is steep, there's not much but park on either side of the road, it's quite a distance to the next traffic light - it's an ideal spot to go zOOm, for drivers who are so inclined.

Of course, Joburg metro discovered this, and sets up camp there pretty much every day speed trapping. I don't know anybody with a car who hasn't gotten at least one fine there.  It was a particularly strategic place for the police to set up camp, because a bunch of undergrowth from the park came right out to the road, making it impossible to see them from either direction.

Today, city parks went on a pruning spree. The whole roadside has been cleared, up to the fence. A rather disgruntled crew of metro policy were gathered in a nearby parking lot, no doubt trying to decide what options were available. I wonder how traffic patterns will change....

Spear/Smear of the nation destroyed

I'm not quite sure if I'm thrilled that art is still playing such a cutting edge role in provoking public debate, or morbidly fascinated that there aren't better things to worry about than the president's willy. For those not living in South Africa (or living under a rock), the Goodman Gallery has become The Place To Be in Joburg, when, in the savviest curatorial decision in history, they put up a Brett Meyer art exhibit including a picture of Zuma with his, ahem, hanging out (others have suggested that it could just as well be Vavi - this doesn't make quite as good a news story, though...). As an aside, the rest of the exhibit's quite clever.

The ANC's response was not quite so savvy; what was an opportunity to show a bit of humor and maturity instead sparked protests and court interdicts (which I can't imagine have a chance in the world of getting anywhere, except making noise in the papers....we were starting to get tired of Mdluli anyway). Given that South Africa has some of the strongest jurisprudence protecting satire out there, I'm not sure what the goal is (perhaps build support for certain presidential parts being covered by the secrecy bill?).

Anyway, it seems like every time these furors erupt in public discourse, I come away feeling very un-South African (maybe home affairs saw something to make them delay my ID book application). In very much the same way I feel un-American when the conversation turns to politics in Nebraska. I'm generally surrounded by 'leftish' public intellectuals, most of whom were strongly supportive of the ANC (and many of whom still are), while still being critical of the corruption, neoliberalism, materialism, and other nasties are now part of the ruling party. Whether or not I agree with their take on issues like this, I'm acutely aware of a complete chasm that exists in mindsets between them, and the ANC supporters protesting for the removal of the painting. I can't even blame this one on economic inequality, because I feel the same chasm when my mother starts talking about Sarah Palin.

In cases like this, you can't completely avoid the discussion of who's right (there's some sort of responsibility to public discourse to hash it out, at least until the newspapers get bored)....But at the risk of sounding like a marriage counselor, I'm not sure being right is the point (even though it's to know I'm right). The more important questions aren't battled out in the media...given all this, how can we still work towards all the things we do agree on? The current levels of unemployment are shocking whether you think the depiction of Zuma is racist of not. As the DA and Cosatu are at loggerheads about a youth wage subsidy, why is the discussion about the disagreement in means, instead of how to achieve the shared goal?

Soap Oils

I've been talking about soap making enough that it finally gets a post. There are plenty of online tutorials for how to make cold process soap, so I'm not going to repeat the basic information. I will, however, localise it a bit. There don't seem to be too many artisanal cold process soap makers in this part of the world (or, they don't have much of an online presence - or, I just haven't come across them yet); this surprises me, given that you can find boereseep at so many padstaals across the country.

I already wrote about where to find lye in Joburg; I'd imagine in rural areas, finding pure caustic soda is somewhat easier.

Some discoveries I've made on oils:
Coconut oil is tricky to get. It really does improve the quality of soap dramatically, so if you're tempted to skimp on it because it's hard to find or expensive...think twice. The exception is if you want to render your own tallow, which makes a reasonable substitute (though an even better compliment). If I didn't live in a flat in Yeoville, I'd do this more often - but without a place to cook outside and a massive freezer, it's not really worth the work and mess. So, I buy coconut oil from Windrose. I like that you can order online conveniently, in a range of quantities; if anyone has other suppliers to recommend (or wants to split up super big bulk orders), shout.

Sunflower seed oil is also tricky. It's a very common cooking oil here, readily available, inexpensive - and not the best for soap making. It's very good if kept strictly at under 10% of your base oils; but any more than that, and the soap tends to be too soft (and rumour has it will spoil, though I've never had that happen before). The exception is if you're making detergent, or laundry soap; a useful thing with used sunflower seed oil.

Most other good base oils are readily available and not terribly expensive. Palm oil is everywhere and used for everything. Ditto with soybean and canola, though they tend to be heavily genetically modified. Olive oil's predictably expensive, but available in bulk without much hassle; getting pomace is harder in Joburg, but can be found by perusing joints that press their own oil in the Western Cape (if anyone knows of good pomace suppliers in Joburg, please let me know). There are lots of fabulous specialty oils, like marula, avocado, and macadamia, that I always try and look for when I'm in the right parts of the country; I'm always looking around for recommendations if people know of great sources! But these are generally best as super-fatting oils, rather than bases.

Used cooking oil is fabulous for making run of the mill soaps and detergents.  I can easily get used palm oil from local restaurants; I just strain it, add some fresh coconut, soybean, and canola oil to it for a laundry soap batch, and it works brilliantly.  You can make soap with bacon grease and there's no smell at all; used cooking oil's just fine. It doesn't make A grade soap, but is perfect for general household purposes.

Some discoveries on soap molds:
I'm still looking for someone to make me the perfect wooden soap mold :) In the meantime, however, there are lots of good options. 1 liter juice (or long life milk) cartons work great; they're just the right size. I haven't managed to find an ideal plastic ware size/ shape. There seem to be more people making melt and pour soap than cold process in Joburg, and as a result, getting those plastic or silicon fancy shaped soap molds is relatively easy; however, I don't like them much, and would rather use a shoe box.

Out My Window This Week

1. The neighbors. Now that the leaves have almost fallen off the trees, the views into the flats across the street are unobstructed. Happily, I have curtains. Unhappily, most of the neighbors do not. I suppose there ought to be some sort of urban camaraderie in the guy next door smoking in his boxers while I'm sitting out on the balcony having my morning coffee. I haven't found it yet. It's too cold to be eating breakfast outside anyway.

2. The Jesus Mobile. There has been a very large, bright blue combi driving around, with a life sized Jesus and megaphone on top, playing gospel music. I don't know where it comes from, but it goes by about twice a day.

3. The sun! I'm on the south side of the building, which means as winter comes, I get more direct sunlight.  First thing in the morning, it's fabulous!

4. The Rat saga continues. I'm quite happy to watch them dance in the gutters as I do the dishes, but apparently folks on the first floor have started getting them as visitors. Not so great. I wouldn't mind a good excuse to get a cat! We'll see.

5. Vuvuzelas. With the Pirates win last night, they're back with a vengeance. During the day, a block away, I feel content patriotism. All night, right under the window, is a different story. 

Re-loving The Troyeville

I'm now rediscovering Johannesburg - with a toddler! I figure the trial run won't hurt. A good friend of mine has an 18 month old boy, who is sweet, but active (and currently likes to throw anything that will hold still long enough; double points if it makes a loud noise). I'm now thinking of going out in new ways.

The Troyeville Hotel has been a favorite haunt of mine more or less since I've come to Joburg. The crowd is unpretentious, the food is reliable and good, and the place has something for every mood; you can take your grandmother there for a formal Sunday lunch, or your friends can take you out for a raucous party (with good beer). While I don't quite qualify as a regular (the true regulars are like permanent fixtures to their bar stools), I regularly bump into people I know and like. It's hard going wrong. But just how toddler friendly would it be?

As it turns out, more than I ever could have dreamt. It helps that it was a Monday night and we were there early, so it was very quiet. But one of the waiters picked up on the fact that my friend and I were trying to sneak in snatches of adult conversation in between chasing the bub from table to table, and whisked him off for a backstage tour of the kitchen. Baba managed to charm everyone so much that we didn't get nasty looks for leaving our paper table cloth in confetti around the balcony. We were kept well supplied with little plastic butter tubs to throw (which don't cause too much damage), and bub could do laps around the balcony as we ate. The pot plants were big enough to be an attraction, and too big to dump over/ spill out/ tear up. It was just the right level of stimulation to keep a toddler totally enthralled, and not overwhelmed.

Thank you Troyeville Hotel, yet another reason you're one of my favorite places to hang out in Joburg.

Reviewing Ramen

Braamfontein is trying to re-take center stage on the Johannesburg culinary scene; one of the new places that's sprung up is Ramen, in that little plaza between de Korte and Juta streets. They advertise free wifi, and I'm always on the hunt for hangouts with good food and wireless. They are few and far between in Joburg, and generally not the easiest to access via public transport. Melville seems to have a concentration of these joints (though often without the good food), but I'm convinced it's not necessary to schlep to the west side of town. I'm digressing.

So, it's possibly my own fault for expecting an authentic Japanese noodle shop....because authentic, it is not. The menu boasts of one noddle option, wraps, curries, and bunny chows. The drink options are limited to things that come out of cans (I was really geared up for a fresh juice. Or a ginger beer. I had to settle for Lipton's Peace Iced Tea in a can. Bleh).

The food was mediocre - made fresh to order, though it had too much sauce, clearly from a squeeze bottle, with no strong affiliation to Asian cuisine. The service was very friendly and quite efficient (yay!). Prices were good (R50 for lunch).

The clientelle was....interesting. Not quite what I expected. I spent about an hour and a half there, and of about 30 people who filtered through, I was the only woman (perhaps I was hyper aware of this, because I was working on a discussion paper on gender justice. But it was still odd - and true of the adjoining coffee shop, as well). Lots of businessmen, mostly middle age and in suits. I was also the only one working on a laptop. It definitely hasn't managed to cultivate the vibe of an inviting, hip place to spend some time and get some work done. I'll probably still be back, for the sheer convenience. But 44 Stanley still wins for a place I'd actually aim to spend time.

Lying Jackpot in Jozi

I have a slight obsession with making soap. But one dilemma that has tripped me up lately is where to get lye in Johannesburg. I've been through a range of options, but haven't been satisfied with any of them. Chemical companies will sell it, but you must go through a slightly obnoxious process of putting in a purchase order and waiting until they have stock, then collecting in random corners of City Deep, Krugersdorp, or Kempton Park. Large pharmaceutical suppliers are in the same boat, but generally charge twice as much. To make this even less convenient, you generally either have to pay a ridiculously large amount for small quantities, or get 50 or 100 kg bags (which I don't particularly want sitting around my flat. This is, after all, a dangerous chemical).

The one rocking soap shop I've found (which I actually love for many things) only sells cold process soap supplies in quite small quantities (it's great for additives, like Bentonite and Kaolin clay, and packaging ideas); 500g of lye won't even make a whole batch.

Builder's Warehouse used to stock lye, but quit several years ago. I thought I might have luck at plumbing stores, or industrial cleaning product stores, but have been met with blank stares, or directed to drain cleaners that have a bunch of other chemical stuff added. Part of it might be that I was asking for the wrong thing (sodium hydroxide, or lye, won't get you far. It goes by caustic soda).

Having just run out of lye again, and unhappy with my most recent supplier (a chemical supply company in City Deep, where I could get 10 kgs of lye in 1kg bottles for R80/kg). First, I don't particularly like their over-packaging (the bottles are a funny size, and I can't very well come up with any way of reusing them). Second, I think they're overpriced. Third, they're inconveniently located. Three strikes.

This morning, I was going to make another run through the yellow pages to see if I couldn't find a better supplier. I was getting keys cut at the Mica at Eastgate, and though I had asked there many times before and not found them able to either sell me sodium hydroxide or tell me where I could procure it, I swung by the plumbing section on a whim. In a dusty corner were 5kg buckets of pure caustic soda flakes, for R169. The manager assured me it was pure sodium hydroxide. Made by Resinate, based in Benoni. Packaged in a fabulously useful bucket.

I feel like I just won the lotto! Tomorrow I'm going to test with a big batch of soap!

Garbage Gutters

One of the top objections many people have to Yeoville is that it is dirty. The Dad fusses that it is 'unsightly', and the Yeovue News (when it was still around) used to bemoan the littering that took place. On one hand, it's hard to argue with facts. There is trash on the streets. When Pick-it-up doesn't make an appointment, there are piles of garbage on the street corners; and the day or two before garbage collection, the park usually looks pretty grotty.

The other day, The Dad made a comment about how it must be possible to fix it - he came up with a few technical suggestions, like placing big dumpsters on street corners. or distributing more bins. I objected, seeing the refuse problem as reflective of a broader issue of a too-high density area with lots of squatted buildings, all around poor service delivery, and high levels of poverty, all of which contribute in various ways to the garbage in the streets.

But more to the point, I'm curious about why this garbage doesn't particularly bother me, when other people have such a strong reaction to it. I see it more as a reminder of the work all of us need to do to make the world a better place than a problem to be fixed, as such. Coincidentally, I remember feeling similarly when landing in Mumbai 15 years ago...exchange students from all over were so upset by the garbage on the streets, which I just kind of filed away.

I see lots of reasons why cities need a good refuse disposal system - public health is important. But why are bags of garbage on the streets unsightly, when kids out of school a weekday aren't? Or racially segregated neighborhoods? Or all the cars coughing out pollution? Or the high walls and security systems in Houghton? Or the inability to see the stars because of all the light pollution? I'm not saying I love having garbage around; but I'm relatively confident that with a good development plan, management, and resourcing, that can be sorted out without too much trouble. I'm more upset about the high walls, which seem harder to solve, and on the whole, more damaging to public health...

Out my window this Friday

1. The candle light vigils (whatever they were for) have ended, and been replaced by bonfires, lit by the homeless people sleeping in the park. Winter is on its way, the nights are getting chilly. Homelessness is a problem; fire hazards are a problem, what to do?

2. Rooftop gym. 2 buildings up, an impromptu gym has been set up, and there have been people lifting weights every evening. Most of the equipment is improvised (paint cans filled with cement to make dumbbells), and most of the guys are buff enough that it doesn't look like they need much exercise....Still, it makes me wish we had a flat roof; like so many buildings around, it adds fabulous communal space to a building.

3. Sports week! One of the schools nearby (I'm not sure which one) took over the park next door for sports this week. They set up cones, obstacle courses, race tracks, and had the usual assortment of leapfrog, 3 legged races, and walking like a duck. It made the week noisier than most, but more entertaining.

4. Mynahs, mynahs everywhere. All the migratories have long gone; now we're down to the rough and tumble city birds that stick out the winter.

5. To let again; the occupation of the flat across the way only lasted for 2 days, now it's to let again. So much for my optimism about renting being easy...

The ID saga continues

Feeling unusually hopeful on last week Wednesday, I called Home Affairs to check up on the status of my recent ID book re application. More on the saga here and here. I always start with the toll free enquiries line, and move from there. Bad news.

Once again, my application has been sent from Harrison street, and not received in Pretoria. This is a process that should take 2 days, and it's been over 3 months. Call center conclusion? I should go to Harrison street, figure out how they are sending my application, obtain 'some kind of tracking number or something' and then find out what went wrong.

I mull on this advice for a day, check with a friendly immigration-lawyer-friend to see if he can shed any light on the situation, and Thursday, I call Harrison street directly, in hopes that I won't have to go there in person. There are 3 numbers listed for the office on the dha website. Between Thursday of last week and this Tuesday, I spent 11 hours (count them, 11) calling them (automatic redial on skype), and nobody picked up.

So this Tuesday, I called the cell phone of the regional manager. She was polite, helpful, and sounded like she knew what was going on. Apparently, what is taking so long is that they must confirm my permanent residence permit. Issuing my permanent residence permit took 6 weeks, and confirming it has now taken 11 months, but nevermind. I should go to the first floor of Harrison street, and ask to talk to the supervisor of the ID section, who used to be (but is no longer) Thandi.

Once again, hoping to save myself a trip to Harrison street, I phoned, and this time, miraculously, got someone to give me a direct number to the ID section (I feel like this is a heavily guarded state secret). I am told that the applications generally take 3 months to reach Pretoria, and I should phone back next week Thursday. I've had the 'phone back next week Thursday' conversation with DHA many times before. I think it's the Home Affairs equivalent of 'don't call me, I'll call you'. I feel rejected. And may have to trek back to Harrison street one of these days. At least when my belly enters a room 3 steps before I do, I get some sympathy standing in the queues.

Pregnancy faux pas

I got asked 4 times this morning if I'm having twins. No, no I'm not. I am, however, outgrowing maternity clothes. I didn't realise that was possible. Ah, the learning curve that comes with reproduction....

Money is the new dompas

I was sitting next to the taxi driver on the way to Braamfontein this morning. In the ashtray, there was a a scrap of paper, with a doodle of a dog on it. A very artistic doodle. Not a photographic likeness of a dog, but you know those sketches that manage to capture the 'doggy-ness' of that particular dog, sometimes in more revealing ways than a photograph would? Anyway, I was enchanted, so I asked him if he had drawn it. It was like the floodgates had opened. The story of why he never studied art should be turned into a book some day. It was one of the most eloquent sketches of transformation in contemporary South Africa I've heard; I wish I'd been able to record it. I just remember snippets, here and there; the title is one of them...

....we were constrained then, by police, asking for our passes. Now it's tsotsis asking for money. Sometimes the tsotsis are criminals, street thugs. Sometimes they work in banks, and wear suits. Either way, they constrain us as much as apartheid did. I still wonder if my son could become an artist in South Africa.
......before it was the whites displacing us, now it's the Zimbabweans.

Every time I have conversations like this, I want it to be simultaneously transformed into a story, and an excerpt for my PhD....

Out my Window this week

Several blogs I read have some sort of Friday round-up....links they like, what they read this week, WTF Friday.....One of the things I love about living in Yeoville is being able to watch all the weird and wonderful (and terrible) things that happen out my window. So, here's my first weekly list. Next month, I'll add pictures! But the building is still sorting out our wireless connection, so for now you'll have to use your imagination.

1. The evangelical churches have set up a candle light vigil around the palm trees in the park. I have no idea what it is for, but there are candles burning on the ground all night. With the park currently full of litter and dry grass it's probably a fire hazard. But charming.

2. The Red Ants evicted a whole building just down Frances street. It was 8:00 at night and cold. Even though it was horrific, it became a bit of a street party; the evictees blocked off the road with bonfires, and lined the streets with couches and beds. Within a couple days, things had largely been cleared out, people must have made arrangements....Several buildings were hit last month, I wonder if that means investors are coming in?

3. The rat living in the drainpipe across the street had babies. It should probably make me go EW, but they're actually quite cute to watch scampering in and out of the storm drain. If they come too close, we may have to invest in a building cat.  But for now, we seem to have achieved a comfortable urban symbiosis.

4. The building facing my kitchen had a tenant move out on Monday. Tuesday, they put up a To Let sign. Wednesday, someone moved in. They haven't been there long enough for me to know anything about them (except their curtains are white), but it gives me hope that I may be able to let me place out quickly, should the need ever arise. That said, my rent would probably be triple what a family pays for the living room across the way.

5.  The Sunday Soccer Spectacle. Having decimated the north side of the lawn, the game has now moved right below my window. Blood was actually drawn last weekend about one of the referee's calls. 

Lawyers are scary

In an effort to prepare for all eventualities (and taking advice from friends who have gone through nightmare divorces), I'm trying to drag The Dad along to a mediator to develop a parenting plan, and set up a joint bank account to pay for Baby. I have seen two lawyers in my life, one is my uncle who always took care of everything remotely financial/ legal/ etc. in the family, and other other is the immigration lawyer I hired to help get permanent residence in South Africa (after 2 study permits, 2 work permits, and a gazillion tourist visas, it was the best investment I ever made).

Most people I can find in Joburg who help develop a parenting plan are divorce lawyers. Which is sensible, except neither of us have ever been married....There seem to be a few other ways to go to get the service done, but not that many that expect you to be amicable in the process. FAMSA will allegedly help (though I've now phoned 3 times and not managed to have anyone get back to me), as will the Family advocate at the department of justice (though they apparently have nobody to pick up the phones there on Friday). Apparently, social workers can do these things....but where does one find social workers in Joburg? Presumably you can't just corner anyone with a degree in social work. Add it to the list of things that I wonder how people 'normally' do.

Great Durban Salt March?

My discovery for the day: we pay VAT on iodated table salt. Apparently, it doesn't qualify as an 'essential food item'. Given that it only costs about R6/kg, I don't envisage mass protests. I was just surprised, checking my grocery receipt. I wonder how that decision got made....

The fieldwork begins...

Just when I'm getting so round I'm ripping the seams of maternity clothes, funding has come through to start fieldwork...so I'm now scrambling to see what I can possibly get under way in the next 5 weeks, so that in my dreams, by the time the baby arrives there will be fabulous, well trained researchers all over the shore diligently gathering data as I recover, and by August I'll just have to fill in a few gaps, follow up on a few interviews here and there, and analyse what's been found.

I also think this is probably impossible and insane to be attempting to set everything up in 4 sites in about as many weeks (with no preparation), and wonder what's going to end up being neglected in the process.  Whee!

Little Baby on the Prairie gone wrong

Blob has about 6 weeks to go before it gets a name, and I feel like I ought to be preparing. In that light, I found internet advice for how to make your own baby wipes. As experiments in the kitchen go, this seemed like a pretty tame one. Paper towels, soap, oil, voila! Sounded worlds easier than yoghurt, soap, and other domestic tricks I had to work a bit to figure out.

Well, now I have a big wad of wet, papery bleg in the kitchen, that reminds me vaguely of the gloop we used to make paper mache stuff with as kids. Oops. Maybe the paper towels I got weren't high enough quality (I don't really know what to look for in a paper towel)? All the online recipes seem more or less the same, so I can't imagine that's the problem....This may be one that's just easier to get at the shops; we'll see.